Wine Travel Stories

In-depth Tales of Winery Visits Around the World

Overview of Sicily Wine Region

(June 2016) It took less than 24 hours in Sicily to realize we were in a different country, and it was not Italy. This was a sentiment not only pronounced repeatedly by the Sicilians we met – “We are different.  We are not like the rest of Italy.  We used to be our own country.” – but also by the landscape, architecture, food and wine. It was different.  Even the palpable energy and seemly ready instinct of the people to argue about any topic, made us realize that we were far removed from the quieter and gentler wine regions of [...]

By |2026-09-14T13:15:50-07:00August 5, 2016|

Driving from Puglia to Sicily via Basilicata and Calabria

(May 2016) Though most people take an airplane flight to Sicily, since we were already in Puglia and had a big comfortable bus with a great chauffeur for our 28 travelers, we decided to drive. It turned out to be an excellent decision because we were able to see some very beautiful parts of Southern Italy, including the non-touristy provinces of Basilicata and Calabria. The Beach in Scilla, Calabria Basilicata – Home of Aglianico del Vulture We left our hotel at 8am and eventually came to the border of the Basilicata province. Basilicata was similar to Puglia, in that the [...]

By |2026-09-14T13:15:51-07:00August 3, 2016|

Alberobello and Lecce – Two Key Cultural Sites of Puglia

(May 2016) Because Puglia is one of the oldest regions of Italy – colonized by the ancient Greeks in the 8th century BC – it is considered to have many important archaeological and cultural aspects.  We visited two of these, namely the village of Alberobello and the walled city of Lecce. Trulli Houses in Alberobello Amazing Alberobello  - Fairytale Town with Conical Stone Houses When I read about the village of Alberobello on my previous trip to Puglia and didn’t have time to visit, I made a promise to myself that I would return and stay there some day.  Therefore, [...]

By |2026-09-14T13:15:51-07:00August 2, 2016|

Cavorting at Cantine Cantele – A Joyful Winery in Puglia Focusing on Negroamaro

After lunch in the historic walled city of Lecce, we drove about one hour north to Cantine Cantele, a large beautiful winery housed in an impressive white stucco building in the country.  We were welcomed by Federica in Hospitality who had warned us in advance that Cantine Aperte was taking place in Italy that weekend. Cantele Winery - Photo Credit: Cantele.com “What is Cantine Aperte?” I asked. “It sounds like ‘winery open’.” “Yes,” she said, “It means that most of the wineries in Italy have an open house that weekend, and that anyone can visit the wineries and taste wine [...]

By |2026-09-14T13:15:51-07:00July 31, 2016|

Cantine San Marzano – Home of the Best Primativo in Puglia, Italy

When I contacted Angelo Cotugno, Export Manager at Cantine San Marzano, to see if we could schedule a winery visit on Sunday morning at 11am, I didn’t realize that wineries are usually not open on Sunday in Italy.  Since I’m from Napa/Sonoma, where Sundays are often one of the busiest wine tourism days, I was caught off guard when Angelo informed me they were not open. “However, we will open the winery especially for you!” These were such sweet words to my ears, and so incredibly kind – illustrating the warm hospitality of Puglia.  Indeed, not only did Angelo show [...]

By |2026-09-14T13:15:51-07:00July 29, 2016|

Cantina Albea – A Friendly and Delicious Wine Tourism Experience in Puglia

(May 2016) On the afternoon of our first day in Puglia, we were scheduled to visit Cantina Albea  - a small winery located in the town of Alberobello, and just a short walk from our hotel. We were greeted by Tommaso Marangi, who has a contagious smile and exhibits much passion for wine and Puglia. He gave us a tour of their fascinating museum, explained the wine making process, and then allowed us to taste several wines. About Cantina Albea Winery Located close to the Locorotondo DOC, Cantina Albea focuses on grape varietals from this region, such as Verdeca and [...]

By |2026-09-14T13:15:51-07:00July 20, 2016|

Overview of Puglia Wine Region

(May 2016) Driving from the hills of Campania to the flat dry plains of Puglia illustrated the strong difference between these two famous wine regions of Southern Italy.  However, even though they are very different in landscape and grape varietals, it only took us two hours to drive from Benevento to Alberobello, the ancient and charming town we stayed in for our two days in Puglia.  Alberobello is a Unesco World Heritage site because of its unusual “trulli” architecture – tiny conical shaped houses made of stone. Truilli Architecture in Alberobello, Puglia The Unique Beauty of Puglia’s Landscape and Climate [...]

By |2026-09-14T13:15:52-07:00July 10, 2016|

Cultural Sites of Campania: Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast

(May 2016) During our two-day visit to Campania, we stayed in the town of Benevento.  This town is in the heart of wine region, and is very Italian with few tourists. I think we may have been the only Americans in town. At most of the restaurants, they only spoke Italian. However, everyone was very friendly, the prices were inexpensive, and the old quarter of town was charming. Wine and Home Cooked Food at Mama Nunzio's Nice Hotel and Excellent Home-Cooked Italian Food in Benevento We stayed at the Grand Hotel Italiano. The staff here was very welcoming and helpful. [...]

By |2021-01-23T13:44:05-08:00July 8, 2016|

The Queen of Campania Wine

(May 2016) Milena Pepe, CEO of Tenuta Cavelier Pepe, swept across the front porch of her winery to greet us with open arms and a huge Italian welcome. The winery, located in the rolling hills of Campania, looked like a small palace with tall white pillars along the front and the vineyards beyond. Milena beckoned us to line up on the porch for a photo, and then for the next two hours, she proceeded to dazzle, delight, and inform us about the unique wines of Campania and the many indigenous grape varieties she is using at her estate. Visit to Tenuta [...]

By |2026-09-14T13:15:52-07:00July 3, 2016|

The King of Aglianico – Piero at Mastroberardino Winery

I first met Piero Mastroberardino at Vinitaly several years ago.  As a fellow professor, we immediately had something in common.  He invited me to join a vertical tasting of his Taurasi Aglianico, which featured four wines from each decade of the 70’s, 80’s, 90’s and 2000’s.  It couldn’t have been a better introduction to aglianico, because it made me fall in love with the grape and wine.  The complex black plum, tar and earth notes, with the piercing acidity and structured tannins of the wine allows it to last for decades, and grow in complexity. Rightly called the “Barolo of [...]

By |2026-09-14T13:15:52-07:00June 27, 2016|

The Campania Wine Region: Climate, Major Grapes and Four DOCGs

Located about two hours south of Rome, the wine region of Campania is a magical and romantic place. The word “Campania” means “Happy Land”, and the locals told us that the landscape is similar to that of Piedmont.  I would have to agree because Campania is beautiful with rolling hills, vineyards, olive groves, red poppies, and rocky mountain cliffs. The vineyards are also at higher elevations, ranging from 300 to 800 meters above sea level. The Beautiful Vineyard Landscape of Campania The climate is obviously Mediterranean, being close to the sea. It has hot dry summers and cool wet winters, [...]

By |2026-09-14T13:15:52-07:00June 15, 2016|

A Wine Tour to Southern Italy – Exploring the Regions of Campania, Puglia and Sicily

(May 2016) We just finished a 12 day wine tour of Southern Italy, and it was truly amazing.  It started and finished in Rome, but focused on the three major regions of Campania, Puglia and Sicily. We also included some cultural stops along the way such as Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast in Campania, the ancient cities of Alberobello and Lecce in Puglia, and the amazing seaside village of Cefalu in Sicily. Our Wine Delegation in Rome The following blog posts describe the highlights of the trip and the nine wineries we visited.  There were 28 of us in total [...]

By |2026-09-14T13:15:53-07:00June 13, 2016|

Who Needs Chickens in the Vineyard When You Have California Quail?

May 2016 – One of the downsides of living in the country on the foothills of Sonoma Mountain is that you must haul your garbage bins up and down the hill once a week when the garbage truck comes.  It was about 7:30pm this evening when I remembered I had not yet hauled up the recycle bin because it is so much larger and heavier than the regular garbage can. Therefore as the sun was sinking below a fog bank rolling in from the Pacific Ocean, I decided I should force myself to walk down the hill and roll the [...]

By |2021-01-23T13:46:02-08:00June 4, 2016|

Humility, Grace and Wine – A Dinner with Steven Spurrier and Paul Draper

(May 2016) One of the marvels I’ve witnessed over the years is that often the most famous winemakers are the most humble. This is the case with Heidi Barrett, who’s 1992 Screaming Eagle broke the world record for one of the highest priced wines sold at auction, as well as with Aubert and Bertrand de Villaine from Domaine Romanee Conti, who lovingly produce some of the most coveted wine in the world from “God’s vineyards.” More recently I had a similar experience when I met Paul Draper of Ridge and Steven Spurrier, the man who launched the 1976 Judgment of [...]

By |2021-01-23T13:46:24-08:00May 25, 2016|

Tasting the Power of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2009 S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon

This post is in honor of the 40th Anniversary month of the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting, and is an excerpt from my book: Call of the Vine: Exploring Ten Famous Vineyards of Napa and Sonoma.     Photo Credit: SLWC    After touring Stag's Leap Vineyard, I was honored to be able to taste the 2009 S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon, along with sister wine, FAY and the 2009 CASK23, a blend of the two famous vineyards. The winemaker for the 2009 vintage was Nicki Pruss, a soft-spoken brunette with baby blue eyes and a passion for winemaking. She actually went to [...]

By |2021-01-23T13:46:49-08:00May 19, 2016|
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