Deep within the multi-faceted empire of LVMH lies an elite inner sanctum of viticulture: a collection of four legendary wine estates operating under the banner of Vins d’Exception. Distinct from the luxury conglomerate’s broader commercial labels, these rare properties are managed with a singular devotion to heritage and unparalleled terroir.
To celebrate this elite portfolio, Vins d’Exception recently orchestrated a historic, ultra-exclusive gastronomic experience in partnership with Thomas Keller’s three-star Michelin icon, The French Laundry, to which I received an invitation.
Proving the insatiable global appetite for high-end wine experiences, the $5,000-per-person dinner sold out within a mere 12 hours. The guest list was strictly limited to 60 discerning collectors, many of whom flew in from across the country and around the globe to secure their seats at the table.
The evening featured a breathtaking 8-course menu paired symmetrically with back-vintages from the four cornerstones of the Vins d’Exception portfolio:
- Domaine des Lambrays (Burgundy, France)
- Château d’Yquem (Bordeaux, France)
- Château Cheval Blanc (Bordeaux, France)
- Colgin Cellars (Napa Valley, California)
The Philosophy of “Place Over Brand”
The evening was the brainchild of Colgin Cellars founder Ann Colgin. As she noted, the principals of these four distinct estates gather annually in either France or Napa Valley, sparking the idea to showcase their collective liquid history alongside the culinary artistry of Chef Thomas Keller. To accommodate the affair, Keller closed The French Laundry entirely to the public for the night, turning the Yountville destination into a private sanctuary for epicureans.
During the event, Mathieu Jullien, General Manager of Vins d’Exception, articulated the distinct philosophy that separates these four estates from the rest of the luxury market:
“Vins d’Exception was formed by LVMH to highlight the distinction between terroir-based wines and brand-based wines. Of course there are great examples in both categories, but they should be managed differently, in pursuit of different objectives: to reflect a sense of place or to reflect a house style.”
This unwavering focus on terroir is deeply rooted in history. The three French estates boast ancient lineages—Lambrays was established in 1365, d’Yquem in 1593, and Cheval Blanc in 1832. While California’s Colgin Cellars is a modern icon by comparison, founded in 1992, it has quickly cemented itself as one of Napa Valley’s most critically acclaimed and heavily awarded estates.
A 14-Course Symphony of Food and Wine
The evening commenced with an elegant outdoor lawn reception fueled by flowing Krug Champagne and a parade of exquisite hors d’oeuvres. Guests were personally welcomed by Chef Thomas Keller and the four leaders of the respective estates: Pierre-Olivier Clouet (Château Cheval Blanc), Lorenzo Pasquini (Château d’Yquem), Jacques Devauges (Domaine des Lambrays), and Ann Colgin (Colgin Cellars).
Because of the intimate, historic footprint of The French Laundry, guests were subsequently divided into smaller dining rooms. What followed was an impeccably choreographed ballet of hospitality, executed by a service team that had memorized every intricate vintage and pairing detail perfectly.
While the menu technically featured eight primary courses, the addition of multiple amuse-bouches, appetizers, and intermezzo desserts brought the total experience to 14 courses. The standout pairings of the night redefined the boundaries of fine dining:
- The Caviar Overture: Regiis Ova Reserve Caviar served alongside Le Petit Cheval Blanc 2021 in Magnum. The bright, sophisticated architecture of the white Bordeaux cut through the richness of the caviar beautifully.
- The Sweet and Savory Harmony: Four Story Hill Chicken Breast (Poularde) with morels, paired daringly with a 2013 Château d’Yquem in Imperial Magnum. The luscious, honeyed complexity of the Sauternes created a sublime contrast with the savory, melt-in-the-mouth poultry.
- The Terroir Match: Australian Black Winter Truffle agnolotti, featuring truffles tableside-shaved by Chef Keller himself. It was paired with a vertical of 1999 and 2020 Clos des Lambrays in Magnum, allowing guests to taste the stark differences between the vintages amidst notes of earth, mushroom, and red cherry.
- The Napa Crescendo: Broken Arrow Ranch Antelope prepared three ways, paired with the powerful 2005 and 2016 Colgin Cellars IX Estate in Magnum. The rich, velvety tannins of the Napa blends elegantly framed the wild, savory notes of the game.
To engage more closely with all guests, the four principals rotated between tables throughout the evening, poured the rare liquids, and enjoyed deep-dive discussions with the collectors. The energy reached a fever pitch during the final dessert courses, anchored by the pour of a legendary, incredibly rare 1946 Château d’Yquem.
Can It Be Repeated?
With the evening deemed an unmitigated triumph, the immediate question among attendees was whether LVMH would take this concept to other global Michelin-starred destinations.
While Jullien remains coy about the future, he emphasized the deliberate rarity of the event. “Never say never, but at this time, we have no plans to recreate this event elsewhere,” Jullien noted, emphasizing that the evening was designed as a singular, unrepeatable moment for both the consumers and the estate teams.
For collectors who missed the dinner but still wish to experience the synergy of these four estates, LVMH occasionally offers an alternative avenue: the Caisse Vins d’Exception. This ultra-exclusive, numbered wooden case is limited to just a few hundred editions worldwide. Each curated set contains a single bottle from each of the four estates, pulled from a single, globally lauded vintage year—such as the highly coveted 2015 and 2016 releases—offering the ultimate liquid trophy room in a single box.
