When I interviewed Robert Mondavi chief winemaker Genevieve Janssens in the early 2000s while writing a chapter on the To Kalon Vineyard for the book Call of the Vine, I remember being struck by her words:
“It is a privilege to work in To Kalon. I have been here since 1978 and it is my driving reason – raison d’être – for working at Robert Mondavi Winery. To me, To Kalon is the superstar of Napa Valley. It is a First Growth vineyard.”
Today, Genevieve has transitioned to the role of Winemaker Emerita at Robert Mondavi Winery, but her prophecy about To Kalon Vineyard as a first growth site has come to fruition. This is illustrated by the growing number of winemakers crafting exceptional wines from To Kalon grapes and, more recently, by the development of an impressive new tasting room nestled within Robert Mondavi Winery called the “To Kalon Collective.”
This past month, I had the opportunity to attend a special dinner at the To Kalon Collective and was delighted to meet the winemakers, as well as consumers from around the country who had flown in to pay tribute to wines produced from this special vineyard whose name means “highest beauty.”
A Brief History of To Kalon Vineyard
To Kalon Vineyard was established in 1868 by H.W. Crabb when he acquired 240 acres near Oakville, where he planted many different types of grapevines. Today, the vineyard has expanded to 678 acres under vine and is owned by multiple parties, including Robert Mondavi Winery, Opus One, Beckstoffer Vineyards, UC Davis, and others.
The majority of the vineyard is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, but red varieties also include Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Syrah. There is also a famous section of nearly 80-year-old Sauvignon Blanc vines called the “I-Block”—which goes into the signature Fumé Blanc wine made by Robert Mondavi Winery—along with a small section of Sémillon grapes.
When Robert Mondavi first walked through To Kalon Vineyard in the 1960s, it spoke to him, as he described in his book Harvest of Joy:
“Walking through To Kalon, admiring its contours and vines, smelling the richness of the soil, I knew this was a special place… As I walked, I felt a powerful, almost inexpressible connection to this land. And some root intuition inside me seemed to say, ‘Yes, this is the place.’ ”
To Kalon Collective Tasting Room Experience
The To Kalon Collective Tasting Room is situated in a separate wing of Robert Mondavi Winery, just to the right of the famous arch. It features its own private entrance and a series of rooms designed to sample wines crafted by four prominent producers, all using grapes from To Kalon Vineyard.
What makes this concept unique is its singular focus on the land and vineyard rather than just an individual winemaker. Here, the grapes, soil, sun, and microclimate of a particular vintage serve as the common tools the “artists” use to craft their masterpieces.
The four featured producers are:
- Schrader Cellars: Known for intense, deeply concentrated expressions of To Kalon fruit, including their benchmark Schrader Cabernet Sauvignon crafted by winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown.
- To Kalon Vineyard Company: Specializing in small-lot, terroir-focused wines that reflect the site and vintage, crafted by winemaker Tony Biagi (who succeeded Andy Erickson in 2023).
- Robert Mondavi Winery: Featuring their iconic estate selections, such as the To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve and the historic, small-production To Kalon Vineyard Fumé Blanc, crafted by Director of Winemaking Kurtis Ogasawara.
- Double Diamond: A sister label to Schrader focused on delivering a plush, expressive, and structurally precise Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon.
Visitors must reserve online in advance and can choose to taste wines across all four producers or focus on a specific individual brand. Tasting experiences start at $180 per person.
During dinner, I sat next to an avid fan of Schrader Cellars who had flown in from the Midwest to attend the event with his family. He shared how thrilled he was that Schrader Cellars finally had a physical tasting room to visit in Napa Valley.
“We have been fans of Schrader Cellars for years, but until now we didn’t have a physical tasting room to bring friends and family to. Now that the To Kalon Collective is here, we are very pleased,” he said.
Global Release Dinner for To Kalon Collective
Around 200 guests attended the special Global Release Dinner to launch the To Kalon Collective and meet the featured winemakers: Thomas Rivers Brown, Tony Biagi, and Kurtis Ogasawara.
Upon arrival, guests were greeted with a glass of champagne and passed hors d’oeuvres. My personal favorite was a tender piece of lobster served on a skewer with fresh greens—a delightful pairing with the champagne.
Guests were then invited to visit three intimate tasting lounges where current vintages of To Kalon wines were being served. Thomas Rivers Brown, Tony Biagi, and Kurtis Ogasawara mingled with attendees to answer questions. During this hour, I had the opportunity to chat with Thomas and Tony.
Thomas Rivers Brown with Schrader Cellars
Thomas is widely recognized as one of America’s most celebrated winemakers, famed for producing an extraordinary number of 100-point scores. When I asked, he noted that “roughly 40 of those 100-point wines were achieved from To Kalon fruit alone.”
He has served as winemaker for Schrader Cellars since 2000, continuing in his role after Constellation Brands acquired the label. He mentioned that while Schrader originally sourced fruit from Andy Beckstoffer’s portion of To Kalon, the brand transitioned to using Constellation’s estate portion following the acquisition.
Thomas’s signature approach centers on single-clone bottlings harvested from specific micro-blocks within the property. I asked him about his favorite clone.
“Clone 6,” he responded, “because of its tiny berries, vibrant herbal notes, and pure Cabernet expression.”
He emphasized how small berries lend remarkable concentration and density to his 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wines. When asked what sets his 100-point wines apart, Thomas gave full credit to the vineyard: “The site makes all the difference.” His winemaking approach remains disciplined and consistent: 100% new French oak, warm-temperature fermentations, and macerations lasting 16 to 18 days.
Sampling his portfolio, I found the wines dense, seamless, and delectable, with beautifully integrated, silky tannins—though they certainly pack a punch with higher alcohol levels. Thomas explained that he prefers picking at full ripeness when seeds turn brown and sugar levels reach 25 to 28 Brix.
Tony Biagi with To Kalon Vineyard Company
Tony is a fifth-generation Californian with over 25 years of winemaking experience crafting wines for acclaimed estates, including Duckhorn, Sinegal, CADE, and PlumpJack. He was recruited in 2023 to craft wines for To Kalon Vineyard Company, which produces several distinct labels, including HWC (named after H.W. Crabb, the founder of To Kalon) and Highest Beauty. In 2020, he was named Winemaker of the Year by wine critic Antonio Galloni of Vinous.
I enjoyed the focused and elegant style of Tony’s wines, which allow the character of the vineyard and vintage to shine through clearly. Discussing his approach, he noted that he prefers showcasing terroir without heavy winemaker intervention.
“I think of winemaking like piloting a ship and solving problems,” he said. “Every vintage is an opportunity to make a subtle difference.”
Tony also shared that To Kalon is now predominantly certified organic, an impressive milestone for a vineyard of this size. He emphasized how closely he works with the vineyard management team, noting that their precision in the field is vital to the success of every vintage.
To Kalon Dinner Menu & Evening Highlights
Following the reception, guests gathered for a multi-course dinner at large round tables arranged in the garden with a sunset view overlooking To Kalon Vineyard. I was honored to be seated at a table hosted by Thomas Rivers Brown alongside fellow guests.
The menu featured standout vintages of To Kalon wines, thoughtfully paired with courses prepared onsite by the Robert Mondavi culinary team:
- First Course: Heirloom Tomato Panzanella Salad (Serpent Cucumber • Burrata Espuma • Tomato Vinaigrette)
Paired with 2024 Double Diamond Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley
- · Second Course: House-Made Paccheri Pasta (Wild Boar Ragoût • Black Pepper • Parmigiano-Reggiano)
Paired with 2018 To Kalon Vineyard Company Highest Beauty, To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville
- · Third Course: Kagoshima A5 Japanese Wagyu (Potato Boulangère • Broccoli di Ciccio • Red Wine Beef Jus)
Paired with 2016 Schrader RBS, Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville
- · Fourth Course: Mimolette Cheese Tart (Seeded Cracker • Pâte Sucrée • Black Mission Fig Chutney)
Paired with 2014 Schrader Old Sparky, Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville
- · Fifth Course: Assorted Petits Fours
There were two standout pairings of the night. The first was the 2018 Highest Beauty, which impressed with its freshness, balanced acidity, and refined elegance – easily cutting through the creamy pasta and savory boar. The second was the 2016 Schrader RBS, whose seamless power balanced the rich, melt-in-your-mouth A5 Wagyu.
After dinner, guests were treated to custom cigar rolling and a stargazing experience set directly in the center of To Kalon Vineyard. Viewing constellations through high-powered telescopes beneath the clear night sky proved a breathtaking finale to the evening.
Final Reflections on To Kalon Event
Reflecting on the event, I am delighted that Constellation Brands had the vision to establish the To Kalon Collective as a fitting tribute to one of the world’s premier vineyard sites—a true First Growth of Napa Valley, just as Genevieve Janssens foresaw decades ago.
While To Kalon wine prices remain firmly in the ultra-luxury tier, the historic importance and level of craftsmanship are undeniable. The passionate collectors seated at my table—many of whom traveled long distances to be there—underscored just how much this new space means to wine enthusiasts. Having a dedicated destination at Robert Mondavi Winery to celebrate To Kalon wines crafted by world-class producers marks an exciting new era for Napa Valley.
