Wine Travel Stories

In-depth Tales of Winery Visits Around the World

The Queen of Campania Wine

(May 2016) Milena Pepe, CEO of Tenuta Cavelier Pepe, swept across the front porch of her winery to greet us with open arms and a huge Italian welcome. The winery, located in the rolling hills of Campania, looked like a small palace with tall white pillars along the front and the vineyards beyond. Milena beckoned us to line up on the porch for a photo, and then for the next two hours, she proceeded to dazzle, delight, and inform us about the unique wines of Campania and the many indigenous grape varieties she is using at her estate. Visit to Tenuta [...]

By |2021-01-23T13:44:27-08:00July 3, 2016|

The King of Aglianico – Piero at Mastroberardino Winery

I first met Piero Mastroberardino at Vinitaly several years ago.  As a fellow professor, we immediately had something in common.  He invited me to join a vertical tasting of his Taurasi Aglianico, which featured four wines from each decade of the 70’s, 80’s, 90’s and 2000’s.  It couldn’t have been a better introduction to aglianico, because it made me fall in love with the grape and wine.  The complex black plum, tar and earth notes, with the piercing acidity and structured tannins of the wine allows it to last for decades, and grow in complexity. Rightly called the “Barolo of [...]

By |2021-01-23T13:44:48-08:00June 27, 2016|

The Campania Wine Region: Climate, Major Grapes and Four DOCGs

Located about two hours south of Rome, the wine region of Campania is a magical and romantic place. The word “Campania” means “Happy Land”, and the locals told us that the landscape is similar to that of Piedmont.  I would have to agree because Campania is beautiful with rolling hills, vineyards, olive groves, red poppies, and rocky mountain cliffs. The vineyards are also at higher elevations, ranging from 300 to 800 meters above sea level. The Beautiful Vineyard Landscape of Campania The climate is obviously Mediterranean, being close to the sea. It has hot dry summers and cool wet winters, [...]

By |2021-01-23T13:45:23-08:00June 15, 2016|

A Wine Tour to Southern Italy – Exploring the Regions of Campania, Puglia and Sicily

(May 2016) We just finished a 12 day wine tour of Southern Italy, and it was truly amazing.  It started and finished in Rome, but focused on the three major regions of Campania, Puglia and Sicily. We also included some cultural stops along the way such as Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast in Campania, the ancient cities of Alberobello and Lecce in Puglia, and the amazing seaside village of Cefalu in Sicily. Our Wine Delegation in Rome The following blog posts describe the highlights of the trip and the nine wineries we visited.  There were 28 of us in total [...]

By |2021-01-23T13:45:43-08:00June 13, 2016|

Who Needs Chickens in the Vineyard When You Have California Quail?

May 2016 – One of the downsides of living in the country on the foothills of Sonoma Mountain is that you must haul your garbage bins up and down the hill once a week when the garbage truck comes.  It was about 7:30pm this evening when I remembered I had not yet hauled up the recycle bin because it is so much larger and heavier than the regular garbage can. Therefore as the sun was sinking below a fog bank rolling in from the Pacific Ocean, I decided I should force myself to walk down the hill and roll the [...]

By |2021-01-23T13:46:02-08:00June 4, 2016|

Humility, Grace and Wine – A Dinner with Steven Spurrier and Paul Draper

(May 2016) One of the marvels I’ve witnessed over the years is that often the most famous winemakers are the most humble. This is the case with Heidi Barrett, who’s 1992 Screaming Eagle broke the world record for one of the highest priced wines sold at auction, as well as with Aubert and Bertrand de Villaine from Domaine Romanee Conti, who lovingly produce some of the most coveted wine in the world from “God’s vineyards.” More recently I had a similar experience when I met Paul Draper of Ridge and Steven Spurrier, the man who launched the 1976 Judgment of [...]

By |2021-01-23T13:46:24-08:00May 25, 2016|

Tasting the Power of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2009 S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon

This post is in honor of the 40th Anniversary month of the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting, and is an excerpt from my book: Call of the Vine: Exploring Ten Famous Vineyards of Napa and Sonoma.     Photo Credit: SLWC    After touring Stag's Leap Vineyard, I was honored to be able to taste the 2009 S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon, along with sister wine, FAY and the 2009 CASK23, a blend of the two famous vineyards. The winemaker for the 2009 vintage was Nicki Pruss, a soft-spoken brunette with baby blue eyes and a passion for winemaking. She actually went to [...]

By |2021-01-23T13:46:49-08:00May 19, 2016|

Owl Vines & Wildlife: A Tour of the Famous Stag’s Leap Vineyard (S.L.V.)

This post is in honor of the 40th Anniversary month of the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting, and is an excerpt from my book: Call of the Vine: Exploring Ten Famous Vineyards of Napa and Sonoma. California Poppies Near the Vineyard Neon orange poppies appeared in clusters along the Silverado Trail as I drove to Stag’s Leap Vineyard on a breezy April day. The sky was a clear porcelain blue, not as vibrant in hue as it would become in the hotter Summer days ahead, and the temperature matched the Spring season with a moderate 68F. Vineyards marched along both sides [...]

By |2021-01-23T13:47:08-08:00May 17, 2016|

Tasting Bacigalupi Chardonnay with Patrick Sullivan from Edge Hill Estate

This posting is part of my series to honor the Judgment of Paris tastings that are happening in the San Francisco Bay Area this week and next. In my book, Call of the Vine:Exploring Ten Famous Vineyards of Napa and Sonoma, I included two of the famous vineyards that won in the 1976 competition. One of these was the Bacigalupi Vineyard, which produced a large percentage of the  chardonnay that went into the bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena. Today these historic chardonnay vines are still alive and doing well (see previous post). Over the years, the Bacigalupi’s have sold the [...]

By |2021-01-23T13:47:31-08:00May 11, 2016|

A Visit to Bacigalupi Vineyards – Home of Chardonnay Grapes Used in Judgment of Paris Wine

This past week I attended the Sonoma County Barrel Auctionand was pleased to see that Helen Bacigalupi was honored as an icon of the wine industry. Standing less than 5 feet tall, 100 pounds, and in her late eighties, Helen is still a whirlwind with a sharp mind and whit. “I’ve limited myself to only 4 ounces of wine per day,” she told me, “because since I only weigh 100 pounds now, I can’t drink more than that.” Seeing her again reminded me of the wonderful day I spent with her several years ago as we walked through her famous [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:09:31-08:00May 5, 2016|

Day Four of Georgian Wine Tour – Kakheti Region, Tsinandali Palace and Khareba Winery

(March 2016) I awoke at 6:30am in the large four-poster bed on the top floor of the Hotel Mere castle. A faint light was beckoning beyond the long curtains and I knew dawn was rising over the Caucasus Mountains. Jumping out of bed, I pulled back all of the drapes that covered the floor to ceiling windows, then threw open the doors to step out on the balcony that ran around three sides of my tower room. Then I caught my breath in wonder!  The view of the long range of snow-capped Caucasus Mountains was magnificent, with the rosy fingered [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:09:51-08:00April 21, 2016|

Day Three of Georgian Wine Tour – Kakheti Region, Alverdi Monastery Cellars, Schuchmann Winery and Winiveria

(March 2016) After far too little sleep again, we checked out of our hotel in Tbilisi and boarded two vans to climb over the mountain to the Kakheti Valley – about a two hour drive from Tbilisi. The further we climbed in the mountains, the twistier the road became. Soon snow drifts appeared on the side of the road, and when we reached the top of Gombori Pass, we were surrounded by snow, so we stopped to take some photos and have a snowball fight. Twisting Road Over Gombori Pass in Georgia As we descended towards the Kakheti Valley, where [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:10:13-08:00April 19, 2016|

Day Two of Georgian Wine Tour – Visit the Kartli Region and Chateau Mukhrani

(March 2016) After only about six hours of sleep, it was time to get up, grab some breakfast and jump on the bus to drive about one hour north of Tbilisi to the Kartli wine region. This is one of the oldest wine regions in the country, and is well known for its limestone soils and windy evenings, that promote fresh acids in wine. Hilltop Monestery Taken From Bus Window Guramishvili Historical Wine Cellar The drive was beautiful along a winding river, with views of ancient hilltop monasteries in the distance. Our first stop was Guramishvili Marani with its famous historical [...]

By |2022-12-20T08:32:56-08:00April 18, 2016|

Dinner at Bagrationi Cellars – A Sparkling Wine House

(March 2016) After about a 50 minute drive from the Kartli wine region, we arrived back in Tbilisi to visit the famous Bagrationi Cellars, known for their sparkling wine production. Established in 1882 by Georgian Prince Ivane Bagrationi-Mukhraneli, today they produce around 2 million bottles of sparkling wine made in the traditional method of secondary fermentation in bottle.  In addition, they also produce 1.5 million bottles of Charmant.   Entry Hall at Bagrationi Sparkling Wine Cellars During the Soviet era, the winery was taken over as a Soviet project and produced millions of cases of sparkling. Indeed the winery cellars [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:10:57-08:00April 17, 2016|

How to Make Wine in a Qvevri – Traditional Georgian Winemaking

(March 2016) Before visiting Georgia, I had only heard the word “qvevri,” but had never actually seen one, except in photos.  Though may people mix them up with amphorae, they are different.  A qvevri is used to ferment and age wine, and is buried in the ground.  An amphora is used to transport wine and is not buried in the ground. Qvevri That Have Been Removed from Marani (Cellar Where They are Buried) The other interesting thing about qvevri is they come in many different sizes.  Most hobby winemakers in Georgia (this includes many people who live in the country [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:11:20-08:00April 16, 2016|
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