Regardless, it was still a long drive and I arrived in Rutherglen around 3:30 and stopped at the Visitor’s Center. They provided a winery map and some hotel recommendations. My first stop was the Rutherglen Winery, right in town, which was very friendly and helpful. They only had one of the famous Muscat stickies, but many table wines, including a zinfandel which amazed me. The Duriff (Petit Syrah) for which Rutherglen is also famous, was excellent, as well as some of the dry whites. As usual, I did not drink the wine – just spit.
Next stop was Campbell’s Winery which was just down the road and had been recommended to me by the lady at Rutherglen Winery when I asked where I could find the full selection of Rutherglen, Classic, Grand, and Rare Muscats and Tokays (Muscadelles). Campbell’s had been operating for more than 150 years and was very impressive. The very kind hospitality manager, Scott, allowed me to taste the 4 levels of Muscat against the 4 levels of Muscadelle and it was amazing. He explained how they were made and how to differentiate. I found that I enjoyed the younger Muscats (Rutherglen and Classic) –because they were so aromatic and the older Muscadelles (Grand and Rare) – because as they age they gain more honey and toffee flavors. I ended up buying the Grand Tokay (Muscadelle) for $65 in 375ml. Apparently Australia is allowed to use the term “Tokay” for the next 5 years, and then must drop the term in respect for Hungary’s real Tokaj region.
I found a delightful inn (The Poacher’s Hotel) and after a refreshing
shower, a beer at the pub and a walk around the delightful mainstreet of Rutherglen, headed to a wonderful dinner at the Tuileries Restaurant. The evening was balmy, so I walked – Rutherglen was much warmer than Melbourne. Around 80 F during the day.
The next morning I had an incredible visit to Chambers & Rosewood Winery (also over 150 years old) where Bill Chambers took me on a tour of the vineyard and winery. They were actually harvesting the muscat that morning and I was fortunate that he was willing to take a break and show me around. He had just recently received a perfect score of 100 from Robert Parker on both his Rare Muscat and Rare Tokay, which he let me taste. It was like tasting a bit of heaven – rich, luscious, honey, toffee and dried apricots. Amazing, life changing wine. Roberta, the Marketing Director, was also there and very helpful. She introduced me to their rare Gouais grape wine – originally from Croatia via France – a dry white mineral-lemon wine which was quite refreshing. The tasting bar was a bit unusual – 20+ complete help yourself bottles of wine protected by nitrogen gas. Of course, the Grand and Rare Muscats/Tokays were not help yourself. This winery visit was fantastic! I will never forget it.
Last winery stop before heading out of town was the All Saints Winery which is located in a magnificant castle building with white roses. Very lovely place– see video. Also stopped at Tabilk Winery on the drive back to Melbourne. Very amazing old and grand winery with a huge wildlife wetlands.