Wine Travel Stories

In-depth Tales of Winery Visits Around the World

Day One of Wine Tour – Tbilisi and the Georgian National Museum

(March 2016) The next morning, I awoke very excited about the first official day of our wine tour organized by the Georgian Wine Association.  The first stop was fittingly the Georgian National Museum where we were welcomed with a short lecture overviewing the wine industry, and then invited to tour the museum in order to see the oldest winemaking equipment and pips in the world. Oldest Qvevri in the World We saw the oldest qvevri, carbon dated at over 8000 years.  It was smaller than I expected, but then it was explained that many people in Georgia make wine in [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:11:44-08:00April 15, 2016|

Key Statistics on the Wine Industry in the Republic of Georgia

(March 2016) During my five day visit to Georgia, we met with many industry experts who provided the following information.  I have also supplemented this with some data from Euromonitor. Geography and Climate of Georgia The geography and climate of Georgia are ideal for growing wine grapes. The Caucasus Mountains, rising over 15,000 feet high (3000 meters) not only divide Georgia from Russia, but protect the valleys from cold and wind, so that the grapevines can flourish. The eastern part of Georgia has a continental climate, with warm summers and cool winters. It is where the majority of vineyards are [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:12:09-08:00April 14, 2016|

Three Ancient Legends of Georgia, Including the Mystery of the Silver Grapevine Tubes

While visiting the Georgian National Museum, we learned of three ancient legends of Georgia, and the first two are connected to wine. Saint Nino and Her Grapevine Cross Legend says that the apostles Simon and Andrew came to Georgia sometime after the death of Jesus to convert the country to Christianity.  However, they were ignored by the Georgians. It took Saint Nino (a female), who came to Georgia in 337, to convert the King and Queen.  She did this by making a cross of grapevines tied together with her hair.  This linkage to the vine, which was always important to [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:12:28-08:00April 13, 2016|

Walking to the Major Cultural Sites in Tbilisi, Georgia

(March 2016) After checking into the Mercure at 6am and sleeping for 3 hours, I took a leisurely shower and then opened the curtains to see a splendid fortress on top of a hill just outside my hotel.  Settling down with a cup of coffee, I opened the window to a blue sky day and the sound of sweet bird song.  Small white blossoms were just appearing on the trees, as springtime settled upon Tbilisi. After spending about an hour reading about the cultural sites of the city, I put on my walking shoes and headed out. View of Narikala [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:12:50-08:00April 12, 2016|

Five Day Wine Tour to Republic of Georgia – Getting to Tbilisi

(March 2016) When I received the email announcement of the IMW wine trip to the Republic of Georgia, I responded immediately but was waitlisted for two months before I received the good news that someone cancelled and I could have one of the 20 spots available. Turkish Airlines, with a direct flight from SFO to Istanbul and then another 2 hours to Tbilisi, had the best price, so I booked a flight and found myself pleasantly delighted with the great service, food, and wine on the plane. Their lounge in Istanbul was also amazing, and even included a golf practice [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:13:22-08:00April 12, 2016|

Master Tasting at Khareba Winery and Opening a Qvevri to Taste the Baby Wine

(March 2016) We were welcomed to Khareba Winery by an amazing site.  A group of polyphonic singers seranaded us, while chefs prepared traditional Georgian food over an open fire (see video here).  We were invited to help cook fresh breads, dumplings filled with herbs and minced lamb, and the amazing "churchkhela," which look like long salamis. In actuality they are walnuts placed on a string and then dipped in a molten pot of hot grape juice. They taste almost like candy. Polyphonic Singers in Black Robes, with cooking pots over fire Churchkhela. Photo by Levan Gokadze Opening the Qvevri and Tasting [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:13:48-08:00April 9, 2016|

Ikalto Academy – The Oldest Winemaking School in the World?

After a stomach churning ride over the Gombori Mountain range between Tbilisi and Telavi, where we stopped along the way to take breathtaking photos of the snowcapped Caucasus mountains in the distance, we arrived at Ikalto Academy. Established in the 6th century, Ikalto Academy is perhaps home to the oldest winemaking school in the world. Some of the members of our group crossing the Gombori Mountains We were greeted by Bishop David who welcomed us in Georgian to the ancient site, while Tina translated. The Bishop explained that the school was founded by Saint Zenon, one of 13 fathers who [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:14:09-08:00April 8, 2016|

A Magnificent Tasting at Penfold’s Magill Estate Winery

(Feb. 20, 2016) On our last day in Adelaide, we were fortunate to obtain a private tasting at Penfold’s Magill Estate with winemaker, Jason Barrette, and Hospitality Director, Jane Gibbs. This was organized by famous Australian photographer, Milton Wordley, who is good friends with Peter Gago. When Milton learned I hadn’t visited Penfold’s since 2003, he insisted on setting up the visit for us. We are very glad we followed his advice. Old Vines Saved from Bulldozer by Winemakers The Magill Estate is located in a suburb of Adelaide, and boasts 12 acres of old shiraz vines.  It is the only [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:14:30-08:00March 23, 2016|

One Day Wine Tasting in the Barossa Valley, Australia

(Feb. 19, 2016) At the end of our 3 day conference, we signed up to attend the one-day private wine tasting tour in the Barossa Valley. Just like the McClaren Vale, I had visited Barossa several times previously, but this time there were some new wineries on the agenda. Previous Evening Dinner at Hill of Grace Restaurant Given the fact that we had enjoyed a 5-course dinner paired with wine at the Hill of Grace Restaurant in the Adelaide Oval Stadium the evening before, the 8am departure was a bit challenging. Especially since our dinner had started at 7:30pm with [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:14:52-08:00March 9, 2016|

Three Delightful Days in McClaren Vale, Australia

Reunited with my Australian Relatives in McClaren Vale (February 14 – 16, 2016) Our plane touched down in Adelaide around noon, but it only took a short time to pick up our rental car at Hertz and drive the 45 minutes to McClaren Vale.  We reached our private cottage around 1:30pm and after a shower and power nap, went to visit Hugh Hamilton Winery (see other post), before driving up Marshall Road to visit my relatives who live on top of the hill. As usual on this remote road, we passed at least 8 kangaroos jumping in the yellow grass.  [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:15:13-08:00March 9, 2016|

A Visit to the Cartoon Decorated Molly Dooker Winery

(Feb. 15, 2016) I must admit that I’ve never been a fan of cartoon wine labels, but at the same time recognize that they have helped Molly Dooker to differentiate itself on the global wine scene. However, given the fame of their wines now, I’m not sure that the cartoon labels are still necessary. And indeed, they have dispensed with this custom on their high-end Black Velvet wine, which comes in a simple black bottle. On the other hand, the cartoons are part of what attracts many of my Millennial wine students to this winery. We arrived around 11:30 in [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:15:36-08:00February 25, 2016|

Visiting the Black Sheep Winery of Hugh Hamilton in McClaren Vale, Australia

(Feb. 14, 2016) The entrance to Hugh Hamilton Wineryis stunning, with a curved gray wall at the beginning and then a long driveway lined with tall green cypress trees.  Along the drive, there are four “sheep dips”, which are upside down speed bumps, each marked with a cute sign with a sheep.” At the far end of the driveway is a tall circular building set on a hilltop and surrounded by vineyards.  An imposing flight of steps leads to the building, and sitting in the center of the staircase is a statue of a sheep. The whole effect is both [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:15:56-08:00February 24, 2016|

Who Knew Southern Indiana Wine Country Was So Beautiful? – A Visit to Huber Winery

Vineyard at Huber Winery, Indiana (Tues., July 28, 2015)Who knew Southern Indiana was so beautiful?  I had flown from San Francisco to Indianapolis and rented an SUV to drive two hours south on Highway 64 to the Uplands AVA of Indiana. My destination was Huber Winery, the largest and oldest winery in Indiana. Situated only a few miles from the Kentucky border, this part of Indiana is graced with gentle rolling hills, green valleys filled with orchards, rows of corn and vineyards. As soon as I turned on State Road 60, I saw charming farmhouses surrounded by large emerald lawns [...]

By |2021-01-23T14:17:30-08:00August 12, 2015|
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