“What does Migliavaca mean?” I asked, sitting at the kitchen table of Katie Migliavacca, founder and co-owner of Migliavaca Winery in Napa Valley. We were tasting the wines of her family’s newly resurrected wine brand, Migliavacca.
“Roughly translated it means ‘thousands of cows,’” replied Kate, “but it is a common surname in Italy.”
“Fascinating,” I said, delighted to have the opportunity to participate in another Covid-safe winetasting during the pandemic. Katie had carefully spaced us 6 feet apart, opened the patio doors and windows wide, provided hand sanitizer, and insisted we wear masks until it was time to taste. “Tell me about the history of the winery.”
The Birth of Migliavacca Wine Company
It was in 1866 that Giacomo Migliavacca, born in Pavia Italy, arrived in Napa Valley with his wife. Their dream was to build a winery and raise a family. In just a few short years the Migliavacca Wine Company was winning awards for their wines, not only in California, but eventually in Atlanta, Chicago, Dublin, and even Paris.
The enterprise became so successful that in 1874, they built an official winery, which is now the site of the Napa County Library. Over the course of the years, the business grew to 500,000 gallons of wine, and they had 10 children. With such a large family, in 1890 they constructed the Migliavacca Mansion in a Queen Anne style from redwood. The mansion still stands today on 4th street in Napa.
Unfortunately Prohibition brought an end to their wine empire, as it did to so many other American wineries. Until in 2016, the family wine legacy was resurrected by great-great-granddaughter and fifth-generation Napan, Katie Migliavacca.
The Resurrection of Migliavacca Brand
“When I found the old wine labels that my great-great grandfather created,” says Katie, “I just knew I had to resurrect the brand. In order to pay tribute to my Italian heritage, and also to differentiate myself in Napa Valley, I decided to focus on Italian varieties.”
In order to start her new winery, Katie also needed a winemaker, so she enlisted Vincent Traverso, a family friend with a stellar background in winemaking. Together they began to search for grapes to purchase, and found some Vermentino in Lodi, Sangiovese from Napa Valley, and Petite Sirah in the SF Bay area.
Now they have released 300 cases of these wines, and they are available online at Katie’s website. She also offers private tastings by appointment, following Covid safe protocols. As we tasted through the wines, I fell madly in love with the Vermentino.
- Migliavacca 2019 Rosado – a fuller-bodied rose leading with a floral nose, and ripe strawberry, melon and bright acidity on the palate. Made with Petite Sirah, and aged 5 months in neutral French oak. 89
- Migliavacca 2019 Vermentino – Brimming with lemon blossom and citrus on the nose, this delightful crisp wine opens up to juicy grapefruit, honeysuckle and lemon-Brule. Aged 17 months in neutral French oak, it has an appealing rounded palate with good texture, and a long finish. 92
- Migliavacca 2018 Sangiovese – A complex wine with glowing ruby red color, and nose of red cherry and orange peel, carried through on the palate. It progresses to complex notes of earth, black tea and allspice with textured tannins and a long finish. Very age worthy, and desiring food. 90
As we concluded our tasting, I couldn’t help feel as if I had stepped back in time to a day when winery owners in California still offered tastings at the kitchen table. I had experienced this in France and Italy, but it is rare to find it in Napa Valley.
However, just like her great-great grandfather, Katie has dreams to grow her business. So I’m sure that someday in the future, she just may open her own winery in downtown Napa like Giacomo did.