Given that Peru is considered to be one of the top culinary capitals in the world, it is not surprising to learn that they also produce wine. However, most people are not aware of the small wine region in Southern Peru that has been producing wine since 1540, and is actually the oldest wine-producing country in South America. Today, the Peruvian wine industry still struggles for both national and global recognition, but there are forces in play that suggest the future may become brighter.
Peru Wine Region, Varietals and Producers
Located 4 hours south of Lima, the Ica Valley is considered to be the heart of Peruvian wine country, and boasts around 85 producers. On the edges of the Atacama Desert, the region is quite dry and hot, but the cooling winds from the nearby Pacific Ocean and an altitude of around 500 meters (1500 feet), result in up to 20 degree temperature shifts at night. This, along, with limestone, clay, and sandy soils, allow this region to produce high quality wine grapes with ripe flavors and fresh acidity.
The most popular red grapes are Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon , Tannat, Syrah, and Grenache. Commonly grown white grapes include Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, and Torrontés.
According to Euromonitor International, the top 3 Peruvian wine producers are Santiago Queirolo (owner of Intipalka brand), Viña Tacama, and Bodegas y Viñedos Tabernero. For 2020, all wine sales in Peru, including imports, totaled $368 million.
Wine production levels in Peru are dwarfed by Argentina, which ranks as 5th largest wine producer in the world after Italy, France, Spain and the USA, according to the OIV. Chile holds the 8th position, whereas Peru holds a production spot in the mid 20’s. The latest OIV figures show Argentina wine production at 13 mhl, Chile at 11.9 mhl, and Peru at .8 mhl.
Pisco, Chicha and Imports Major Challenges to Peruvian Wines
Though boasting over four centuries of wine production, the Peruvian wine industry still faces some major competitive challenges:
Pisco Competes with Wine – the first challenge is the very popular spirit called Pisco. Pisco is a type of brandy distilled from wine grapes, which were brought to Peru by the Spanish (Quebranta, Negra Criolla, Uvina, Mollar, Moscatel, Torontel, Italia and Albilla). It has an alcohol content of 38% -48% ABV, and is extremely popular as a cocktail mix for drinks such as the Pisco Sour, Pisco Royale and Chilcano. Pisco drinks can be found at almost every Peruvian restaurant and bar, and are very popular with locals and tourists alike.
Peru Nationals Don’t Drink Much Wine (or Coffee) – In interviewing a few Peruvians, wine is not the preferred beverage in Peru. “We have a local wine industry,” said one retired wine & spirits distributor in Lima, “but the wine quality is not always that high. One of the best brands, in my opinion, is Intipalka wine. However, for the most part, when people order wine at a restaurant in Peru, they select wines from Chile, Argentina or Spain – which are quite plentiful here.”
Another Peruvian native bluntly stated, “Peru makes both wine and coffee, but most locals don’t drink either. Instead we drink coca tea or chicha beer.”
Chicha, Coca Tea and Inka-Kola – the preferred beverage of many Peruvians is Chicha, which is made from corn and is fermented to a 3% ABV level, or non-fermented without alcohol. The latter is called Chicha Morado, and is a very sweet drink made from boiling purple corn, cloves, cinnamon, and pineapple peel. Coca Tea, made from the leaves of the coca plant (also the source of cocaine) is popular as a stimulant, digestive, and to ward off altitude sickness. Another common non-alcoholic drink in Peru is Inka-Kola, which is florescent yellow in color, very sweet, carbonated, and made with lemon verbena.
Wines from Chile and Argentina Dominate the Local Market – Perhaps due to the smaller size of Peru’s wine industry, there are fewer Peruvian wines to be found on local wine lists. Instead they are dominated by wines from neighboring Chile and Argentina, as well as imports from Spain.
Success Factors for Wines of Peru
Despite the challenges listed above, Peruvian wine is currently positioned to capitalize on several positive forces. In an online interview with Cees van Casteren, MW, an international wine consultant who has visited Peru 30 times in the past 10 years, he reports, “I predict a bright future for the Peruvian wine sector.” Some of his reasons are listed below:
The Growth of Peruvian Gastronomy: Peru has a 500 year old gastronomy heritage, and talented local chefs are creating innovative menus that have allowed Peru to win awards for South America’s best culinary destination for 9 years in a row. In 2021, two of the top 10 restaurants in the world were in Peru, according to Restaurant Magazine. “The Peruvian wine industry is already benefitting from the gastronomic epicenter of Lima,” says van Casteren.
Peruvian Chefs Support Local Wine Industry: Though international wines are found on most upscale wine lists in Peru, a growing number of chefs are purposefully seeking out Peruvian wine to match with local cuisine. “We focus on local organic food here,” said a restaurant owner in Cusco, “and we make sure to also offer a variety of Peruvian wines to pair with the food.”
In Lima, Bernardo Roca Rey, a member of Peru’s gastronomy association and a winery owner, produces a red wine from a rare grape varietal named Luna Negra. He calls the wine Plenilunium, and with high-ratings from consumers, has been successful in placing it in many well-known restaurants in Lima. His goal is to prove that Peruvian wine can be ranked amongst the best in the world.
Peru Wineries Also Produce Pisco: “There are around 35 wineries that also produce pisco,” states van Casteren. Given that pisco is made with wine grapes, it makes sense that Peruvian wineries produce both still wine and pisco – similar to many Italian wineries that also produce grappa. If Peruvian wineries embrace pisco as part of their wine portfolio, rather than as a competitive product, this could help the industry as a whole.
Perhaps the wineries should take a page from the pairing guide of many Peruvian chefs. Pisco sour is often matched with ceviche at Peruvian restaurants, but when it comes to other famous Peruvian cuisine, such as alpaca steak with rare heirloom potatoes, a red Peruvian wine is the perfect pairing.
Tourism Is Increasing in Peru: Machu Pichu has always been a huge draw for tourists to Peru, but Covid brought an abrupt halt to tourism in 2020 and the first half of 2021. Now, as the country opens again to visitors, tourism is increasing, including visits to Peru’s wine region – the Ica Valley.
Taken together, all of these factors bode well for Peruvian wine. Though Peru may never reach the mammoth wine production levels of Chile and Argentina, “It can move from its current position of boutique producer to a brighter future,” states van Casteren.
NOTE: This article was originally published in Forbes.com. Republished here with Permission.