In 1974, with a degree in Biology from University of California at Santa Cruz, Dawnine Dyer set off to Napa Valley with a dream to enter the wine industry. Not only did she succeed spectacularly with jobs at Robert Mondavi Winery, 25 years at Chandon California, and her own brand, Dyer Vineyards, but through the years she developed a reputation of being one of California’s most important female winemakers and mentor to countless others.
This week, as Chandon California in Napa Valley celebrates its 50th Year Anniversary (March 26, 1973), Dawnine Dyer returned to Chandon, where she worked from 1976 to 1999. While there she reflected on its history and the long tradition of mentorship in winemaking circles. She was joined by current winemaker, Pauline Lhote (2016 to present), and past winemaker, Tom Tiburzi (2006-2015).
“There have only been 5 winemakers here for the past 50 years,” said Dyer. “During my 25 years here, I learned that collaboration, working together, and sharing knowledge is the most important aspect of sparkling winemaking.”
Her statement was met with rounds of applause from the more than 80 guests that attended the anniversary celebration on the lawn in front of the Chandon winery. Most were grape growing friends, staff, and long-time customers, proudly announcing they had been Chandon wine club members for 25, 30, and even 40 years (Chandon has the oldest wine club in Napa Valley, established in 1983).
The Tradition of Mentorship in the Fine Wine Industry
Throughout the evening the concept of mentorship and sharing knowledge came up again and again. Indeed, mentorship has always been important in the fine wine industry. Many Champagne houses generally require that an assistant winemaker train under the senior winemaker for a minimum of 10 years, before they are promoted to the top position. In many ways, Chandon California has emulated this practice.
“I worked as assistant winemaker to Tom (Tiburzi) for 10 years,” reported Pauline Lhote, current Director of Winemaking. “He taught me everything I know, and gave me a ton of autonomy, for which I’m super thankful.”
Tom Tiburzi also worked his way up to senior winemaker, when he joined Chandon in 1989 as a lab enologist. He was hired by Dyer because of his degree in microbiology, and she provided training and mentoring for him to enter a winemaking role.
“Dawnine taught me how to make sparkling wines with elegance and finesse,” stated Tiburzi. “I also learned from our third winemaker, Wayne Donaldson, (2000-2005) to push the envelope, and not be afraid to experiment with novel blends.”
As the evening progressed, guests were treated to a series of very special Chandon sparkling wines, including a 1995 Etoile, a 1979 Brut, and the 50th Anniversary Chandon Special Cuvée. This last wine was actually made by all four of the past winemakers.
Pauline Lhote explains: “Five years ago, when I realized that 2023 would be our 50th anniversary, I invited all our of winemakers to come back together to make this special cuvee. Together we blended the base wine from the 2018 vintage, then 3.5 years later we got together to create and administer the dosage. So now we celebrate with this special wine tonight!”
The Important Mentoring Role of ‘Fathers of Daughters’
Over a 6-course dinner under the stars, prepared by Chandon’s executive chef and team, guests chatted about the food, wine, and the history of Chandon. Dawnine continued to receive questions about mentoring, and she responded:
“Over the years, I’ve come to realize how important the fathers of daughters are in promoting mentorship and women in any industry. They are very influential, because they want their own daughters to have success, so they help other women in corporations succeed.”
Julio Rodriguez Buren, CFOCFO of Chandon California, agreed: “I have two small daughters, and whenever I am in diversity, inclusion and equity discussions in meetings, I listen very carefully to try to understand biases and help people overcome them. Having daughters really makes you aware of these issues.”
Indeed, Chandon California has a positive tradition of hiring and supporting both women and men in winemaking and other roles. But it has done an exceptional job at mentoring and promoting women at an early time when most of Napa Valley was dominated by male winemakers. Perhaps it is due to Chandon’s Champagne heritage, and the many influential women in that region over the years, including Veuve Clicquot, Lily Bollinger, and Louise Pommery.
Regardless, Chandon California’s 50 year history with two powerful female winemakers at the helm, is a true testament to Women’s History Month.
Brief Overview of Chandon California Winemaker Timeline
Chandon California was established by Moet Hennessy in March of 1973, making it the first French-owned sparkling wine venture in Napa Valley. During the first 3 years, Chandon wines were made at Trefethen winery, by a team from France led by Alain Poirier and Edmond Maudiere (1st Chandon winemaker, 1973-1975).
American, John Wright, was hired to be the new President, and oversaw construction of the winery at its current location in Yountville, which opened in 1977. Wright also hired the employees, including Dawnine Dyer (2nd Chandon winemaker, 1976-1999) in 1976, after she completed a trip to Champagne to tour other Moet & Chandon properties.
Dyer was mentored by Edmond Maudiere (who sadly passed on March 28, 2023), and continued to receive support for many years from the large circle of sparkling winemakers employed by Moet Hennessy. During the course of her Chandon career, she helped to define Chandon’s distinctively Californian sparkling style and created the famous Etoile Prestige Cuvee.
Wayne Donaldson, from Chandon Australia, became the 3rd Chandon California winemaker, from 2000-2005. Donaldson is best known for his launch of Chandon’s still wine program and their Red Demi-Sec.
Tom Tiburzi, (4th Chandon winemaker, 2006-2015), was mentored by both Dyer and Donaldson. He is most well-known for his launch of Chandon’s sparkling terroir series, which highlights vintage-specific single vineyard wines.
Pauline Lhote, (5th Chandon winemaker, 2016-Present) is the current Director of Winemaking, and is proud to lead and mentor an all-female winemaking team. She is passionate about innovation, and has championed the newly released Chandon Garden Spritz Tea in collaboration with one of her Associate Winemakers, Laura Fontaine, as well as single vineyard Chandon cabernet sauvignons.
Lhote also described how she regularly meets online with Chandon’s other global winemakers in Argentina, Brazil, Australia, China, and India in a peer-to-peer mentoring role. “We collaborate together and learn from our shared challenges and successes,” stated Lhote.
NOTE: This story was originally published on Forbes.com. Republished here with permission.