When most people think of Bordeaux, a big hearty red wine comes to mind. Yet semi-sweet and sweet white wines have been made in Bordeaux since the 16th century. Long considered to be only a beverage to sip after dinner, such as a sweet Sauternes or Barsac, there is another section of Bordeaux that is beginning to gain more attention for their sweet wines – especially from young consumers and gourmets. Created in 2009 by the Union des Grands Vins de Bordeaux Sweet, the 8 appellations that make up ‘Sweet White Bordeaux’ are gaining more traction in Europe, and making inroads into the U.S. market.
“We find that our wines are very popular with younger consumers in France and Germany,” reported Arthur Fournier, Operations Manager of Chateau de Birot, in an online tasting of a dozen sweet and semi-sweet wines from the region. “We are starting to see a similar trend in other locations.”
Youmna Asseily, Co-Owner of Chateau Biac, agrees. “We see many young people attracted to our wines. It is normal for the younger palate to appreciate sweet wines. Another popular aspect is that these wines will keep for 3 weeks in the refrigerator after opening.”
This preference for sweet wines is also supported by a recent U.S. study showing that 1 in 3 of new wine consumers begins their wine journey with a sweet wine. Another study illustrated that many wine consumers start with a preference for sweet wine, and then as they age, switch to drier styles – however, around 30% of consumers never switch to drier styles, preferring to stay with sweeter wines. So perhaps the entry of more sweet white Bordeaux wine offerings into the U.S. market is timely.
About the Eight Sweet White Bordeaux Appellations
The eight appellations that are part of the ‘Sweet White Bordeaux’ brand are located to the south and west of the city of Bordeaux, but do not encompass the more well-known Sauternes and Barsac appellations. Each focuses on a slightly different interpretation of sweetness, based on their terroir:
1) AOP Cadillac – Sweet and subtle, opulent
2) AOP Loupiac – Sweet and sensual, opulent
3) AOP Bordeaux Moelleux – Sweet and fresh, medium sweet
4) AOP Cerons – Sweet and refined, opulent
5) AOP Bordeaux Superior – Sweet and diaphanous, medium sweet
6) AOP Premiers Cotes de Bordeaux – Sweet and elegant, medium sweet
7) AOP Saint-Macaire – Sweet and tangy, medium sweet
8) AOP Croix-du-Mont – Sweet and generous, opulent
The sweet white Bordeaux wines are made from a blend of sauvignon blanc, semillon and muscadelle grapes. They range from pale yellow to a bronze orange in color, and taste of honey and white blossoms, with hints of citrus and candied aromas. There are 350 wineries in the region, and together, they produce around 9 million bottles of sweet and semi-sweet wine each year – of which 35% is currently exported.
Prices for the 750 ml entry-level wines can be surprisingly affordable, such as Le Blanc de Monsieur Ducourt at $12 per bottle and Chateau de Birot ‘Blanc de Birot’ for $16. Though higher-end wines can soar as high as $80 per 500ml bottle, such as the Secret de Biac from Chateau de Biac. The wines are relatively easy to find in Europe at grocery stores and wine shops, but can only be found currently in a few U.S. states and online. Exports from the region have been hampered in the past by U.S. tariffs and spotty marketing efforts, but are now gearing up to expand to other states.
Pairing Sweet White Bordeaux Wines With Cuisine
Another surprising aspect of sweet white Bordeaux wines is that gourmets and chefs are increasingly pairing them with innovative cuisine choices – moving beyond the classic blue cheese and foie gras.
“We have developed many recipes to pair with the sweet white wines of our region,” states Asseily. “Some of my favorites are Lebanese Tageen of Seabass with Tahini and Seville Orange Sauce, Braised Gammon with Autumn Fruits and Grand Marnier Marinade, Fennel Tart, Carrot and Coconut Milk Soup, Green Prawn Curry, and Clémentine-Flavored Crème Brûlée.”
Indeed, the wines pair well with spicy foods, such as Asian, Thai, Lebanese, Mexican, Indian and Chinese food. Sushi is an especially popular pairing. Many recipes to match sweet wines to cuisine are provided by SweetBordeaux.com. Asseily, a talented chef herself, describes how to prepare Chicken with Confit Lemons to pair with one of her sweet wines:
“For this recipe, I kind of throw things in,” she says. “So get good quality chicken pieces, rub them with ‘five spices’, and put them in an oven proof dish. If you have some leftover white wine, pour a generous dollop of it on the chicken; then add some garlic cloves unpeeled, black pitted olives, green ‘Basque’ olives, some shallots, salt and pepper and, finally, put the confit lemons in slices. Bake in oven at a gentle temperature. Serve with baked potatoes cut in squares on which you would have sprinkled some fresh thyme…and, of course, a sweet white Bordeaux wine.”
Solutions Needed for Sugar-Level Labels on White Bordeaux Wines
One issue that plagues sweet white Bordeaux wine is their lack of a system to indicate the sugar level of the wines on the label. It is not always clear to consumers that the wine is actually sweet. Given that there are many dry white Bordeaux wines from appellations such as Graves, this is an important concern. Furthermore, the sugar levels can range from 25 grams per liter (gpl) for the semi-sweet wines in a 750ml bottle, up to 99 gpl sugar in a 350ml bottle for the opulent sweeter styles. Front and/or back labels often do not mention that the wine is sweet.
In order to be fully transparent to consumers, the region needs to develop a system similar to that of the International Riesling Foundation. They have developed a chart that is used on the back of wine labels to show consumers where the wine falls in terms of sweetness. The scale starts at dry then moves onto medium dry, to medium sweet and then to fully sweet. Despite this drawback, the wines from these eight appellations have much historic and taste appeal. They can also serve as another onramp for new wine consumers, and an intriguing challenge for gourmets and chefs.
NOTE: This story was originally published on Forbes.com. Republished here with permission.